What is a wine-like coffee?

A wine-like coffee is one whose aromatic profile and acid structure clearly evoke wine: complex acidity built on malic or tartaric acids, notes of red or dark fruits, light tannins on the finish, and a cup that evolves as it cools. This profile is characteristic of certain Ethiopian naturals and a handful of exceptional Kenyan washed coffees.

The wine-like character of a coffee results from a convergence of varietal genetics, altitude, fermentation process, and light roasting. Chemically, malic acid (found in green apple) and tartaric acid (dominant in grapes) are two organic acids naturally present in green coffee at concentrations that vary by origin. Ethiopian coffees processed as naturals — particularly from Yirgacheffe, Sidama, and Guji — are known for concentrating these acids during on-cherry fermentation, creating profiles reminiscent of a light Pinot Noir or a fresh Beaujolais.

Kenya's SL-28 and SL-34 varieties, grown on high plateaus between 1,400 and 2,000 metres altitude in phosphorus-rich red soils, develop a blackcurrant acidity of a complexity close to the finest red Burgundies. This 'Kenyan blackcurrant' acidity has become a global signature of Kenyan specialty coffee, and several leading roasters have turned it into a direct selling point for natural wine enthusiasts.

What distinguishes a wine-like coffee from simply acidic coffee is how the cup evolves: at 80 °C, fruity notes are intense and forward; at 60 °C, faint tannins emerge; at 40 °C, the finish lengthens and fermented undertones appear. This thermal evolution mirrors exactly what one observes when aerating a glass of red wine. A surprising discovery: scientists have detected in some Ethiopian natural lots molecules identical to those found in red wine — notably 4-ethylguaiacol and various fruity esters — produced during prolonged cherry fermentation by wild yeasts similar to those used in natural winemaking.

Wine-like profiles in specialty coffee